THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cordavi

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cordavi Restaurant Review:

Cordavi's young chefs, David Szlam and Cory Elliott, are taking big chances, utilizing the sous-vide and foam-laced “molecular gastronomy” approach pioneered at El Bulli and Alinea, and mostly they are doing it very well. The simple, elegant dining room provides a nice background for the experience. A sweet pea flan with truffles, bacon and butter foam leads a frequently changing tasting menu that will often include last-minute impulse courses from the kitchen. The sweetness of scallop “pasta” gets along beautifully with surprisingly intense corn consommé and a dusting of porcini powder. Not every dish on the tasting menu is equally successful, but by and large the approach works, particularly with the 36-hour sous-vide short ribs, which are balanced with mushroom risotto and a whimsical, bright orange carrot “yolk.” The mostly young servers are not enormously polished, but they are well informed and manage to escort diners through the meal with experience-enhancing proficiency. The regular wine list is focused on domestics and is not extensive, but the wine pairings for the tasting menu are competent, particularly the 2003 Château Maris Syrah from La Livinière with the short ribs. The regular menu offers a more mainstream approach with edgy touches from the tasting menu.