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Corks at Russian River Vineyards Restaurant Review: State regulations nix an oh-so-natural notion---a full-scale restaurant at a working winery. Fortunately, Corks is the rare exception, grandfathered in. The 1890s redwood farmhouse contains a sampling bar of estate wines. Better yet, sample them over a meal. The dining room splits into three parts: an intimate, elevated side room with views over the winery crush pad and vineyards, a sunroom with original brick flooring morphing outside through an expansive sliding glass wall, and a redwood-rimmed patio, one of the county’s best al fresco dining spaces. The venue is made all the more intriguing by the decaying, historic winery’s silhouette; at dusk, diners and servers pause in awe of bats streaking from the rustic towers. Local ingredients punctuate a California-style menu that’s more substantial than spa-light. Starters might include Dungeness crab and Sebastopol Asian pear salad with fennel pollen aïoli or frothy, sweet pea soup with nested prawns. Next up, choose locally raised Berkshire pork chop with artichoke cannellini bean ragoût, coho salmon with saffron cream and crisped risotto cake imbued with truffle oil, or New York steak with jus and mashers. Hope to finish with fluffy, warm semolina cake, almost a muffin-top with plump rose-infused cherry sauce and ice cream. Give Chester the winery dog a pat as he ambles attentively by and you’re sure to feel right at home.