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Cotto Wine Bar & Trattoria Restaurant Review: Cotto hits all the right contemporary notes: a curved wood-slated ceiling; brick walls lined with glamour shots and movie advertisements featuring Simonetta Simeoni, the film-star mother of restaurant co-owner Silvy Ridolfi; brushed aluminum chairs and wooden tables. The interplay of warm and cold elements creates a setting that is at once casual and polished, and it works well with the Roman menu that can be best described as rustic with a refined edge. Dishes are artfully presented and seek to preserve the inherent quality of the ingredients and their flavors. Start with a classic caprese salad with fresh mozzarella, tomatoes and basil. Tapas range from arancini in combinations such as truffle or four cheeses to New Zealand lamb chops flavored with rosemary and garlic, served with a side of balsamic-drizzled arugula. Pastas include bucatini all' amatriciana with guanciale, onion, pomodoro, red chili pecorino and Parmigiano, while entrées feature a tender and juicy organic chicken Milanese paired with baby arugula, mozzarella and grape tomato tossed in a lemon vinaigrette. The wine list provides a comprehensive introduction to the many varietals found in the different winemaking regions of Italy, from Piedmonte to Abruzzo, and points in between. Old-world and new-world varietals from France, Germany, the U.S. and Spain are also featured.