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Cotto Wine Bar & Trattoria Restaurant Review: Cotto hits all the right contemporary notes: a curved wood-slated ceiling; brick walls lined with glamour shots and movie advertisements featuring Simonetta Simeoni, the film-star mother of restaurant co-owner Silvy Ridolfi; and brushed aluminum chairs and wooden tables. The interplay of warm and cold elements creates a setting that is at once casual and polished, and it works well with the Roman menu that can be best described as rustic with a refined edge. Dishes are artfully presented and seek to preserve the inherent quality of the ingredients and their flavors. Start with San Marzano lamb meatballs with tomato sauce and shaved Parmigiano, and the fried calamari with marinara and a smoked paprika aïoli dipping sauce. Pastas include linguine alle vongole with Manila clams and white wine with just a touch of spice, and rigatoni alle spuntature with pork short ribs and tomato sauce. Entrées feature a brick-oven-roasted chicken in its natural juices with portobello mushrooms and mashed potatoes. The wine list provides a comprehensive introduction to the many varietals found in the different winemaking regions of Italy, from Piedmonte to Abruzzo, and points in between. Old-world and new-world varietals from France, Germany, the U.S. and Spain are also highlighted.