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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cowcatchers Steaks Restaurant Review: THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED Beams and other bits of nineteenth-century barns define dining spaces at Cowcatchers, an eclectic assemblage of old boards and corrugated metal set beside a country road. Inside the main dining room, a suspended chuck wagon and sepia-toned western murals keep the cowboy credo coming. Appetizers include mounds of fried mushrooms served with peppery cream gravy and prodigious piles of onion rings. The steak selection includes a beefy flatiron, a Prime grade sirloin and a rib-eye that comes in four thicknesses (and weighs from 12 to 24 ounces). There's also a petite filet for the more cautiously carnivorous. The beef, slightly smoky from the mesquite wood, benefits from adding a little salt and a little more black pepper. Fish entrées also make an appearance as does a menu featuring ten entrées under $20---grilled chicken breast and tortilla-crusted tilapia among them. Among the sides, we are avowed advocates of the surprisingly sophisticated green beans sautéed with bacon and onion. And we also admit to being smitten by the fruit cobblers done on the outdoor chuck wagon on weekends.