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Departure Restaurant + Lounge Restaurant Review: Gaze down at the city scene from the rooftop balcony or sit in the Jetsons-style bar and you may forget, for a moment at least, that you’re in Portland. Actually, the setting is the top floor of The Nines boutique hotel. The food (and the people) tends to be quite attractive, but fortunately, there's substance behind the style. Chef Gregory Gourdet and his team prepare an array of small plates, such as skirt steak with black sesame sauce, juicy buns made with barbecue short ribs, shrimp dumplings, sushi rolls, and “wok-fried” dishes such as chili prawns with candied walnuts. Be sure to order several if you’re hungry: portions are small. Slightly larger plates include creative combinations like crispy pork belly, pickled cherries, ginger and pumpkin seeds, or shellfish and tofu stew. Discover interesting salads as well, such as one featuring Asian pears, apples, hearts of palm, tamarind and macadamia nuts. Vegetarians have numerous choices, and there's even a special vegan menu. Order the chocolate and curry peanut bar for dessert. Expect exotic cocktails and a lengthy (and expensive) wine list, which includes numerous sakés.