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DGS Delicatessen Restaurant Review: Chef Barry Koslow has surfaced again, this time in an almost-kosher Jewish deli in Dupont Circle. He describes his food as “modern Jewish cooking,” but many of his dishes are based on family recipes. What he does, however, is make everything from scratch, just like the genuine New York delis of olden times. Famous here are his pastrami, the tongue sandwich, grandma’s matzoh ball soup, and dinner entrée platters of chicken schnitzel and kasha varnishkas. Babka bread pudding, DC-style cheesecake, and Hungarian donuts are part of the appealing dessert menu. As a step toward modernizing the fare, Koslow and staff offer deli-friendly cocktails, plus a short list of wines, beers and soft drinks. This is a don’t-miss eating destination, one of the most unique among DC metro-area restaurants.