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Dishoom Restaurant Review: In the 1900s, Persian immigrants to India set up cheap cafés in what is presently Mumbai. It was a cosmopolitan, casual way of dining and now, just as you were thinking there was nothing new in the way of Indian restaurants, it has surfaced in London. Dishoom is huge fun, with a retro interior of oak panels, old mirrors and ceiling fans interspersed with crazy hanging lights and old photographs and magazine covers --- Old India and new Bollywood together. Start the day with a sausage naan roll or set yourself up with the full Bombay. There are plenty of salads, grills and small plates for lunch and dinner. Try mixing the latter, perhaps a first-rate keema pau (pau with spicy minced lamb), vegetable samosas and calamari. Or go for the chicken biryani, house black daal or grilled masala prawns. The cooking is above-average, much better than you might expect at first sight. Service is brisk and the place jumps. Also located at King’s Cross, 5 Stable St., 020-7420 9321; and Shoreditch, 7 Boundary St., 020-7420 9324.