 Chef Donato Scotti earned a following for his Northern Italian cuisine when he headed La Strada in Palo Alto; he and followers have now migrated to the eponymous Donato Enoteca in Redwood City's quickly gentrifying historic downtown. Scotti's space is charming. Divided into three areas, it features a front room designed for cheery casual dining, including bar seating that flanks an open prep kitchen, tables with white cloths topped by butcher paper, and a rustic Italianate décor. Further back, a lounge opens up with dark elegance, a full bar, and, weather permitting, cushy outdoor patio seating. The very back room offers a more formal dining experience, with white tablecloths, a gilded mirror, and plush rugs. Choices abound on the seasonally changing menu as well. If it's offered, don't miss the bruschetta di cinghiale---hand-pulled braised wild boar on grilled ciabatta. The lean, savory boar gets a jolt of flavor from Chianti vinegar, proving an unlikely appetite whetter. Foiade di funghi, organic buckwheat pasta with mixed wild mushrooms, puts the art in hearty; the al dente noodles get extra heft from a helping of Grana Padano, Italy's famously grainy cheese. This dish proved a toothsome pairing with branzino al ferri, whole sea bass with fennel grilled to delicate consistency. Antipasti and wood-oven pizzas round out the menu, and house-made gelato is a refreshing finale. Scotti is also responsible for artisan sausages, lamb prosciutto and mostarda. A wine list heavy on Italian classics provides for inspired pairings.
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