Dopo Restaurant Review
4293 Piedmont Ave. (Echo Ave.) 
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Oakland, CA 94611
510-652-3676 | Menu
| Dopo seats about 60, but devotees still queue up on the sidewalk each evening, wine glass in hand, for a coveted seat. It’s easy to understand why---chef Jon Smulewitz, formerly a cook at Oliveto, presents inspired Italian food in a warm and friendly space. The small menu changes daily, showcasing the best of the market---one day it might be spaghetti with Manila clams, tomato, chili and garlic, or a simple salad of locally grown arugula topped with thick shavings of Parmigiano and a bright dressing. Dopo’s house-cured salumi, like the mortadella and Calabrian-style salami, hint at Smulewitz’s passion for the pig, and the curious can try a large sampler of the offerings. Be sure to order a crispy pizza from the wood oven; even the most basic combination of buffalo mozzarella and basil is a revelation. The menu is supported by a wine list showcasing good bottles from (mostly Italian) small producers, and it’s easy to find a selection to pair with your meal. Desserts are simple but not boring, often including a bracing lemon tart and a rich chocolate-almond torte. |
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