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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Doug's Restaurant Review: Drawing on cooking experience at Brennan's and Commander's Palace in the 1960s and 1970s, owner-chef Floyd Bealer replicates the same buttery, creamy, peppery stamp of those restaurants in that era. Try the oysters Louisiane, paired with artichoke hearts and a lemon beurre blanc; richly seasoned, crab meat-stuffed mushroom caps; the perennial breaded scallop of veal alongside a cream- and Parmesan-rich fettuccine; and reliably fresh, sautéed gulf fish, the best of which may be the seafood-stuffed flounder. Classic dishes include a good tournedos with a marchand de vin sauce, a dish that Escoffier would call comfort fare. A definitive bread pudding and a cool, aptly named chocolate silk pie are good bets for dessert. Prices are considerably lower than those you'd pay across Lake Pontchartrain in New Orleans for comparable food. Without the roadside sign, the wood-frame building, set back from the road, could be mistaken for a bungalow. Inside, dark woods and unaffected wall art define the main room's style. But beyond that is a second, brighter space with roomy, cushioned garden chairs of white metal and a lush little glassed-in garden.