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Dovetail Restaurant Review: Wes Griffith and Chad Evans, partners in The Rookery downstairs, enticed local native Doug Sanneman out of the academic culinary world to become executive chef at Dovetail, and he’s ably assisted by sous chef David Jolley. The contemporary menu changes frequently and relies on foodstuffs from area purveyors and producers, including grass-fed beef from White Oak Pastures near Albany in southwest Georgia. Reconfigured Southern elements are everywhere, such as the addictive brined and vinegar-scented boiled peanuts, only available in season as the kitchen insists on using green peanuts. We enjoyed our smoked poulet rouge (from North Carolina), showing the pink ring that suggests its having been smoked over wood, a dish that likely will appear from time to time. And we hope to again encounter the ham fritters with a moonshine syrup. For brunch, go for the poached egg atop Red Mule grits, along with the sausage and biscuits. For dessert, check out the cobblers and the house-made ice creams, especially the salted caramel. The wine list has gotten some needed tinkering and now better supports the work of this skilled team.