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Dovetail Restaurant Review: Wes Griffith and Chad Evans, partners in The Rookery downstairs, enticed local native Doug Sanneman out of the academic culinary world to become executive chef at Dovetail. The contemporary menu changes frequently and relies on foodstuffs from local purveyors and producers, including grass-fed beef from Rocking Chair Ranch just north of Macon. Reconfigured Southern elements are everywhere, such as in moonshine syrup that accompanies Benton's country ham fritters. We were smitten with the brined and vinegar-scented boiled peanuts presented as an amuse, and the "Butcher Block," an assortment of house-cured meats, ranging from duck prosciutto to chicken galantine. Sea scallops topped with a fennel leek slaw bore a dash of UGA's sturgeon caviar alongside a sprinkling of tomato dust and a Pernod aïoli. Smoked poulet rouge (from North Carolina) was skillfully done, showing the pink ring that's proof positive of its having been smoked over wood. Pastry chef Ashley Dunn weighs in with a dessert list that continues the local and regional theme. We chose the apple cheddar cobbler, with caramel sauce and a dollop of ice cream from Southern Swiss Dairy, located just south of Augusta. As adventurous as the menu is, the wine list deserves rethinking so it supports the work of this culinary team.