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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Dragonfly Restaurant Review: Ornamental Balinese doors, Chinese bibelots, glowing eco-friendly resin and a wall sculpture built from snarls of rattan help set the pan-Asian mood. The bar’s classically trained sushi chef prepares sashimi, nigiri and specialties such as black cod hand rolls and crystal salad rolls (tempura tiger prawn, avocado and crab in rice paper) pricked with chipotle aïoli. According to the folks at Dragonfly, fish is delivered six days a week. On the restaurant’s main menu, a seafood hand roll and sushi rice cakes accompany panko-crusted mahi mahi. Thai fisherman’s stew --- prawns, flank steak, scallop dumplings, straw mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, bamboo rice, cilantro chutney, lobster-coconut-tamarind broth and a sesame chip --- reminds us that Dragonfly’s chef and owner Billy McCullough never met an ingredient he didn’t like (although this combination works). In warm weather, ask for a seat on the roomy deck overlooking historic downtown Truckee. Dragonfly has a private dining room and sushi bar that have doubled the size of the restaurant.