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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Dunaway Restaurant at Strawbery Banke Restaurant Review: The Dunaway is probably the loveliest dining spot in town. Nestled in the midst of Portsmouth’s historic Strawbery Banke neighborhood, with restored seventeenth- and eighteenth-century museum buildings, the interior of the restaurant combines rustic warmth and sleek modern lines. Chef Evan Hennessey’s fans say “hallelujah” to his innovative preparations rooted in New England ingredients. Hennessey did a stint with gastro-wizard Grant Achatz in Chicago and you’ll see a bit of that kind of invention in gelées and foams on some plates, but sparingly. The real triumph comes from his surprising combinations of textures and flavors. Try the pillowy gnocchi with earthy wild mushrooms, with a touch of bitter from broccolini and intense aromatic truffled mornay sauce. Roasted Peking duck is served with seasonal kale braised with house-smoked crispy bacon, melting duck confit and sweet parsnips. The "celebration" menu is a multi-course festival of a selected theme, such as locally grown apples. Preparations might include a Ribston Pippin apple with yellowfin tartare, pumpkin seeds, celery root sorbet and apple syrup. Desserts include poached peaches with a dense fried pastry cream, raspberry-vanilla jam and a red wine cinnamon ice cream. The wine list offers many domestic choices, but look for special South American selections as well. Take notice if they serve something from the Banke’s historic gardens, as it’s something you won’t see often.