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Eastern Standard Restaurant Review: Owner Garrett Harker, the former partner of Barbara Lynch (he put the G in B&G Oysters), reigns over the enormous dining room where everyone from Red Sox fans to pre-theater diners come to indulge in retro cuisine for the post-millennium. Though Eastern Standard is located in the Hotel Commonwealth, you'd never mistake this place for some average hotel restaurant. Mixologists at the miles-long bar churn out fun throwback cocktails like the Pink Lady and Brandy Alexander. The American-European menu features small delights such as roasted bone marrow and moules Provençal that segue to entrées like grilled salmon and applewood smoked pork porterhouse with crispy polenta, apple and bitter greens. There is a nice selection of sparklers, Rieslings and light-bodied reds available by the glass, but the best vintages --- from Alsace, Austria and Germany --- can be found by the full or half bottle. Anything from the suggested list of wines pairs well with a platter of chilled bivalves. Butterscotch bread pudding with praline ice cream and salted caramel is a good ending. Late night crowds pack the bar most nights.