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Edomasa Restaurant Review: To quell a late-night hankering for uni or udon, this unpretentious Japanese restaurant is traditional and uncomplicated. That’s not to say, however, that dining here should be confined to after-hours. Located in a nondescript building in a quiet section of town, the restaurant has none of the charm of its more popular downtown siblings, and is at a loss for ambience. The menu is heavy on familiar favorites such as teriyaki, sukiyaki and tempura. You won’t find much in the way of experimental fusion, but a number of specialty rolls bolster the sushi list, and the extensive array of appetizers provides diversity. For a particularly rich and indulgent dish, try the Una-Ju --- a thick filet of freshwater eel covered in sweet sauce and served over a bed of rice. And if you’re in the mood for something besides mochi for dessert, consider mitsumame; the Japanese-style fruit cocktail is available alone or with ice cream. Service at Edomasa is friendly, but inefficient. They have a tedious wine list, but a somewhat better selection of saké and Japanese beer. It gets crowded early.