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Edomasa Restaurant Review: To quell a late-night hankering for uni or udon, this unpretentious Japanese restaurant is traditional and uncomplicated. That’s not to say, however, that dining here should be confined to after-hours. Located in a nondescript building in a quiet section of town, the restaurant has half the flash of its more popular downtown siblings, which lends to its charm. The menu is heavy on familiar favorites such as teriyaki, sukiyaki and tempura. You won’t find much in the way of experimental fusion, but a number of specialty rolls bolster the sushi list, and the extensive amount of appetizers provides diversity. For a particularly rich and indulgent dish, try the Una-Ju --- a thick filet of freshwater eel covered in sweet sauce and served over a bed of rice. And if you’re in the mood for something besides mochi for dessert, consider mitsumame; the Japanese-style fruit cocktail is served alone or with ice cream. Service at Edomasa is friendly, but inefficient on occasion. They have a tedious wine list, but a somewhat better selection of saké and Japanese beer.