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El Mayor Restaurant Review: El Mayor is a contemporary and stylish indoor-outdoor roost atop an ancient colonial palace, now a landmark bookstore. From your table, the Centro’s ancient Aztec ruins, baroque cathedral and churches, nineteenth-century palaces and, on clear days, twin volcanoes spread before you in a striking panorama. El Mayor’s menu features updated Mexican fare that’s ambitiously presented and exhibits a notably light touch, even in the case of heavies like fideo seco pasta and the breaded milanesa steak (which is a nice break when you’ve had your fill of belt-busting tacos and enchiladas). Our roast tomato soup and duck salad starter, as well as mains like snapper Veracruz-style and a chicken Cordon Bleu, were good, but a little bland---making us wish the kitchen was as inspiring as the views. Still, on a sunny afternoon there are few more pleasant places to contemplate Mexico City’s centuries-old cityscape. Attentive service also makes up for kitchen peccadilloes.