El Norteno

El Norteno Restaurant Review:

When it opened in its old location, El Norteño offered completely new flavors for New Mexicans --- the flavors of Old Mexico. Now the only novelty is the larger, waitstaffed dining room. But if the repertoire has grown familiar, it hasn’t gone stale. A wealth of coastal seafood forms its center: bright and tangy camarones al mojo de ajo, grilled red snapper smothered in Monterey Jack and chilies, and, of course, Baja-style tacos. Meanwhile, from the fresh chips and salsa through chicken mole and cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pork) to pastel de tres leches (three-milk cake) for dessert, the kitchen continues to show its steady hand --- and its commitment is only reinforced by engaged (if not always zippy) service. If you’ve got a taste for adventure, try the rich stewed goat or tacos de lengua (tongue) washed down with horchata or a cantaloupe liquado (milk shake) --- or, for that matter, decent sangría (there’s also a selection of wine and beer).