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El Rancho Grande Restaurant Review: Regional Mexican folk art objects and ceramic tile-topped tables set the festive tone at the Ortiz family’s three Mexican restaurants. Admittedly, the menu has its share of Tex-Mex dishes (fajitas of many flavors; hard-shelled tacos filled with ground beef and Americanized garnishes). There are even mozzarella sticks and chicken wing bar bites. But the ranchos also brim with traditional home-cooking aromas emanating from platters of real Mexican tacos --- soft corn tortillas stuffed with sour orange-marinated pork carnitas, grilled steak strips al carbon, or pork al pastor (grilled with pineapple), garnished simply with onion, cilantro and fresh pico de gallo. Other winners include traditional tortilla soup and cochinita pibil. Desserts include over-the-top sopapillas (fried dough), topped with both whipped and ice creams. Staff sometimes seem less concerned with food than they are with mastering the margarita, but that's not a bad thing. The selection of 150 tequilas is impressive, and bartenders will customize your cocktail with your choice.