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Enoteca Vespaio Restaurant Review: Buzzing like a beehive, this offspring of Vespaio reminds us of the small, charming cafés in Italy. While the ambience is more laid back than Vespaio, the perfectionist approach to the cuisine retains equal status. Run with the casual setting by ordering one of the traditional wood-fired pizzas topped with local ingredients, including house-made sausage. Though our favorite starter might be the suppli --- crispy risotto balls filled with Fontina and served in a tart tomato sauce. Or dial it up on the fancy meter with a duck confit salad dressed in grapefruit-agave nectar vinaigrette. Entrées may stick with an Italian comfort food theme, but outshine their provincial origins. The arrabbiata sauce --- a slightly spicy marinara --- acts as a base for a number of must-tries, including the homemade gnocchi and raviolini with goat’s milk ricotta. Sunday brunch features warm brioche, eggs Florentine and crespelle (Italian crêpes). Or go full tilt with a crab cake and poached egg with spinach in a brown butter hollandaise. In an effort to accommodate every diner, gluten-free pastas are also available. The berry crostada with a sugared lattice crust or the espresso éclair will keep you light on your toes on the way out the door. The well-crafted wine list includes Italian and French options.