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est. Restaurant Review: It is hard to imagine a grander restaurant. With its soaring columns and moulded ceiling, and ranks of formally set tables and banquettes, here is a choice place for any occasion, from sealing a major deal to the setting for a proposal. Or then again, it can simply be a special treat for someone who appreciates fine food and wines. Chef Peter Doyle’s contribution to Australian dining over the past thirty-plus years is unique and wide-ranging. At est., in the precincts of the heritage Establishment Hotel, he has found the ideal stage on which to present his cuisine. And while all this grandeur could make some diners unsure, the friendly staff quickly put all at ease with their relaxed yet professional service. Lunch (two to four courses) has become a little secret --- the most affordable of its caliber in the city --- while dinner expands to a seven-course tasting menu or four-course chef’s menu. Expect to see seasonal dishes such as saddle of venison with black pudding and celeriac, and duck foie gras with quince and cavolo nero, with perhaps a passion fruit soufflé and sorbet to finish. Diners may order the menu with matched wines or choose their own from the notable wine list. For small groups, there is also an intimate private dining room available for up to 16 people.