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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Fai Thai Restaurant Review: Chef/owner William D’Auvray attracted foodies from all over the South to his first Raleigh venture, Fins, and introduced Asian street food to the city at Buku. With Fai Thai, D’Auvray narrows his focus to Thai food. Under a ceiling adorned with paper umbrellas, patrons enjoy familiar specialties such as tom kaa gai (braised chicken in coconut milk) enhanced by sensuous king mushrooms, galangal and makrut lime leaves, and tom yum (prawns and roasted tomatoes in a delicate shellfish broth). As followers of D’Auvray would expect, he makes his own sausages, cured meats and curry pastes, adding freshness and flavor not often experienced in more typical Thai eateries. His fish and meats are roasted over coconut shell charcoal imported from Thailand, giving them a unique aroma and taste. The sirloin strip and chicken are cooked to a smoky turn, and we also recommend the whole roasted fish of the day, served with braised leeks and shiitakes. Desserts change daily and may include squash crème brûlée, coconut crêpes or a flourless banana cake. The succinct wine and beer lists offer bottles appropriate for the spice-laden food, and the Trader Vic-style umbrella drinks, upgraded with topnotch rums, are delightful.