THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Firebird

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Firebird Restaurant Review:

It’s rare to find a restaurant boasting a new cuisine concept, but pre-revolutionary Russian is a retro style new to the capital. Harking back to a time when the best Russian households employed French chefs, Firebird, which already has a successful sister establishment in New York, briefed French chef Alain Allard, formerly at L’Oranger, to immerse himself in Russian cuisine and evolve a lighter, more sophisticated modern French approach. Don’t come expecting authenticity. Do expect opulence and mostly highly accomplished cooking. A decadent dish of exceptionally plump lightly poached oysters with caviar and wilted lettuce was a total delight. Zakuski, supposedly Russian mezedes, were more variable: excellent herring in sour cream and fresh blini, but mediocre baked mushrooms and aubergine caviar. Uzbeck squab breast was delectably tender and well partnered with celeriac blini, chanterelles and spinach. Roast venison with beetroot, pumpkin, sweet and sour berries however was lacklustre with meat of indiscriminate taste. Stunning caramelised walnut ice cream lifted a drab ’Bolshoi’ chocolate cake, whilst orange and mandarin paska was rather too mousse-like and lacked bite. The townhouse is luxuriously (over) decorated with handblocked wallpaper, original Fabergé eggs and photographs. Service by formally dressed staff is knowledgeable and courteous, if a little nervously over-eager. Unsurprisingly there is a fine selection of vodka, including a delectable honey vodka. Set 2-course lunch £15, 3 courses £18.95.