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The Fireplace Restaurant Review: Logs burn in a stone chimney facing the bar; an exhibition kitchen lines the slightly elevated, understated dining room. The menu mirrors the space by emphasizing comfort on the one hand and New England tradition on the other. Starters include artisanal cheeses and meats, nice raw bar selections, and creative small plates like sweet pea and Parmesan ravioli. Roast meats meet their match with crispy hash browned potatoes, grilled ramps, fiddleheads, baked beans and cheesy cornmeal porridge, all touched with scallions, capers, berries and the like. For dessert, don’t miss the espresso s’mores pie for a chocolate fix or the “seriously light” lemon cake topped with fresh cream. Lunch hews to two-handed traditions like a hot-pressed slow-roasted pork sandwich and a juicy burger topped with cheddar and bacon served on an English muffin. Granted, the kitchen is seemingly marked by a revolving door, and execution varies as a result. Still, we’re inclined to keep rooting for a neighborhood place as mellow and well-meaning as this one --- even the kids’ menu shows thoughtful touches. Drop by for the "fireplace chats" every other Saturday, with seasonal wine, beer and cocktail tastings, highlighted by talks from local brewers and vintners.