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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Fishmonger Seafood Grill Restaurant Review: Fishmonger has a fish-themed décor, with wire-sculpted fish hanging from the ceiling near the bar, a metal sculpted piranha on a ledge as you enter, and painted murals of Mediterranean-feeling fishing scenes. You'll find crisp calamari with a well-seasoned tomato sauce or tartar sauce. The saffron-scented fishmonger stew, chunky with fresh fish and shellfish, perks up with a little saffron, and there's a popular paella. You'll also find five or six daily specials, depending on what's available. Soft-shell crab is served only in-season, so they're never frozen. Nigerian prawns sautéed in a spicy garlic-paprika sauce reflect owner Nik Panagopolos' roots: He's a South African of Greek descent. Carnivores will be satisfied with a filet mignon with Cognac-peppercorn sauce or the occasional surf 'n' turf combination. Anyone who's passed through Stellenbosch in the Western Cape of South Africa may have visited the Fishmonger in that delightful town, but this one is completely different in atmosphere; it's much quieter for one thing and much more artfully designed. We think the food's better here, too. The constantly evolving wine list offers a few South African choices, but is rigorously New World. Also located at 4969 Roswell Rd., Ste. 160, Sandy Springs, 404-459-9003.