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Floriana Restaurant Review: Dupont Circle’s old-timer, Floriana (formerly known as Floriana Mercury Grill, and before that, Mercury Grill), has come into its own with the addition of a young chef whose idea of eating well is to load plenty of flavor onto each plate. Take his short ribs (please keep these on the menu forever, chef), which are boneless and braised with many flavorful components. The entire menu---except the dessert portion, which needs an upgrade or two---will catch your breath: where did the chef come up with such dishes as duck ropa vieja, his take on the Cuban fave, served with arborio rice and black beans; a moqueca de pesce appetizer; and goat Bolognese? That’s just the short specials menu. For the main game, consider pork and porcini mussels, lobster ravioli, and rare tuna steak with an arugula salad. Starters include sautéed spinach, Tuscan toast, and fried calamari with papadu peppers. Service is professional.