Open late Fri.-Sat.
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The Food Market Restaurant Review: Hampden, long the funkiest blue-collar burg in all of Baltimore, has flexed its high-fashion muscles. While workingman’s taverns and mom-and-pop luncheonettes can still be found, the newest arrivals often look fresh from SoHo. The newcomers that work best, though, combine big city edge with the friendly, often eccentric character for which Hampden is known. So it was with The Food Market. Located in a former grocery store, this restaurant masterminded by City Café’s Chad Gauss serves stylish renditions of pubby comfort food. “Truffle Parmesan Fries” says it all. For the most part, portions are smallish, but the flavors are huge; steak frites and scallops with butternut squash risotto with bacon soubise are among the standout entrées. The industrial-chic design, with whitewashed brick walls, aluminum chairs and an open kitchen, looks great, but has an unfortunate side effect: the din is ridiculous. Until this is fixed, be prepared to shout.