| If first glances told all, then Forest Café should be serving diner food. That's what the cheap leather booths, blue-collar bar and dining room shaped like a subway car seem to imply. But as the back-wall mural caught in a closer look suggests, this Cambridge standby (located a few blocks beyond Harvard Square) is actually home to some of the only Mexican cooking worth its salsa in all of greater Boston---especially since the return of chef Jim Fahey. Be it the guilty pleasure of chipotle-and-cream-spiked gorditas de papa or the rich, complex mole especial, Fahey's dishes stand out among the watered-down assembly-line burritos for which this town is notorious. Which doesn’t mean you can’t get your nacho or enchilada fix here. In fact while you’re at it, beg the staff to help us get ours---by bringing back the wonderful charred and garlicky green bean appetizer. |
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