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Four Restaurant Review: "Four" means oven in French and here it's the wood-fired oven that makes just about all the dishes more enticing, especially the thick, lightly marbled Delmonico steak. Get the house-made steak sauce to go with it, or ask if chef Simon Lampert can prepare some béarnaise sauce with a duck fat base. The menu is elusive, showing only a few of the ingredients, but the staff describes the evening's preparation enticingly. Try the sticky sesame ribs with sweet black bean sauce or the beef marrow bones, the rich fat smooth under a wood-fired crust. Steaks are king, a NY strip with house-brewed steak sauce is a must. Or try some comfort food in a first grind meatloaf with mustard gravy or perhaps a half roasted chicken. Sides include creamed spinach, baked beans or smashed purple potatoes. There's a $40 prix-fixe dinner every evening which includes one of the signature desserts, such as a cherry and apple cobbler sizzling in a cast iron pan, or a rich steamed chocolate cake. The neighbors strolling by might stop at the large picture windows to watch you enjoy your meal within the modern dining room. Brunch has become the hit of the town.