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Four Square Restaurant Review: Owners chef Shane Ingram and Elizabeth Woodhouse’s joint résumé highlights experience at The Inn at Little Washington and Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago. A restored Victorian mansion in one of Durham's old neighborhoods, Four Square, their first collaboration, explores seasonal contemporary cuisine. Chef Ingram’s evolving menu includes such inventive first courses as gingerbread gnocchi in a pumpkin ragoût; and lobster, acorn squash and coconut bisque garnished with cilantro pesto. Main courses on any given evening could include rye-crusted rack of lamb with roasted pepper-horseradish jus and collard green slaw, and a braised locally raised pork shank with a green apple-rutabaga-parsnip hash. For dessert, choose something rich, perhaps chocolate ganache with a white chocolate pastry cream, or light, such as a red curry sorbet in coconut soup with mint tapioca and lime. General manager-host Woodhouse heads a knowledgeable dining room staff that quietly caters to --- and often anticipates --- diners’ needs. The ample and well-chosen wine list and nostalgically intimate dining rooms assure an experience that will please the most discriminating tastes.