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Four Square Restaurant Review: Not far from Duke University, Four Square explores seasonal contemporary cuisine in a Victorian setting. Owner/chef Shane Ingram previously worked at The Inn at Little Washington and with the late Charlie Trotter in Chicago before opening Four Square in the old Barlett-Mangum mansion in a historic Durham neighborhood. Chef Ingram’s menu offers such inventive first courses as clam-and-boiled peanut chowder, seared foie gras with mushroom pain perdu, and chile-spiced fried oysters. Main courses could include baked wild salmon with an artichoke-bacon vinaigrette, or almond-crusted rabbit pozole with fava beans and radish slaw, or cane syrup and green chili-cured cod with Asian red cabbage slaw and black bean sauce. For dessert, choose something rich, perhaps white chocolate cheesecake with a Cointreau coulis or butterscotch pudding with chocolate brioche, dry caramel and rye golden raisins. General manager and Ingram’s partner, Elizabeth Woodhouse, heads a knowledgeable dining room staff that quietly caters to --- and often anticipates --- diners’ needs. The ample and well-chosen wine list and nostalgically intimate dining rooms assure an experience that will please the most discriminating tastes.