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Four Square Restaurant Review: Housed in a restored Victorian mansion in one of Durham's old neighborhoods, Four Square, a first collaboration between chef Shane Ingram and Elizabeth Woodhouse, explores seasonal contemporary cuisine. The pair has worked at The Inn at Little Washington and with the late Charlie Trotter in Chicago. Chef Ingram’s menu includes such inventive first courses as braised lamb cannelloni with peanut and sultana pistou; and country-style duck pâté with strawberry rhubarb mustard. Main courses on any given evening could include almond-crusted rabbit pozole with fava beans and radish slaw, or cane syrup and green chili-cured cod with Asian red cabbage slaw and black bean sauce. For dessert, choose something rich, perhaps pound cake crostini, cashew brittle and sour cherry compote, or butterscotch pudding with chocolate brioche, dry caramel and rye golden raisins. General manager-host Woodhouse heads a knowledgeable dining room staff that quietly caters to --- and often anticipates --- diners’ needs. The ample and well-chosen wine list and nostalgically intimate dining rooms assure an experience that will please the most discriminating tastes.