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Fresno Restaurant Review: Tucked discreetly near the train station, seemingly light years away but really only a mere mile from the chic vibe of downtown East Hampton, Fresno specializes in simple, homey fare with a “European sensibility.” Co-owned by David Loewenberg (Red Bar in Southampton and Beacon in Sag Harbor), the chalet-like structure offers a welcoming outdoor patio. A long zinc bar and lounge area anchor one side of the dining room where solid wood beams and banquettes accentuate the country décor. Menus change with the seasons and what is locally available, but some dishes are featured often, such as meaty, plump crab cakes atop a refreshing fennel-jícama slaw or crispy calamari with sriracha and lime aïoli. Stick to the classics among the entrées: the grilled hanger steak and roasted natural chicken breast are foolproof choices. Let all worries melt away as the chocolate-Nutella cream oozes slowly from the core of a molten cake, or share Fresno’s “groovy” cookie plate with the table. At the bar, cocktails span from the caipirinha and martini to the chili-infused margarita. The wine list includes a nice by-the-glass selection with a handful of local wines, and the beer list is international and includes some local brews.