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Fresno Restaurant Review: Tucked discreetly near the train station, seemingly light years away but really only a mere mile from the chic vibe of downtown East Hampton, Fresno specializes in simple, homey fare with a “European sensibility.” Co-owned by David Loewenberg (Red Bar in Southampton and Beacon in Sag Harbor), the chalet-like structure offers a welcoming outdoor patio. A long zinc bar and lounge area anchor one side of the dining room where solid wood beams and banquettes accentuate the country décor. Menus change with the seasons and what is locally available, but some dishes are featured often, such as meaty, plump crab cakes atop a refreshing fennel-jícama slaw, and a roasted beet and goat cheese napoleon on potato ribbons. Stick to the classics among the entrées: the hamburger and hanger steak are foolproof, but the “cataplana,” a seafood stew, disappoints. Let all worries melt away as the chocolate-Nutella cream oozes slowly from the core of a molten cake.