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Fresno Restaurant Review: Tucked discreetly near the train station, seemingly light years away but really only a mere mile from the chic vibe of downtown East Hampton, Fresno specializes in simple, homey fare with a “European sensibility.” Co-owned by David Loewenberg (Red Bar in Southampton and Beacon in Sag Harbor), the chalet-like structure offers a welcoming outdoor patio, while a long zinc bar and lounge area anchor one side of the dining room, where solid wood beams and banquettes accentuate the country décor. Menus change with the seasons and what is locally available, but some dishes are featured often, such as meaty, plump crab cakes atop a refreshing fennel-jícama slaw, or crispy calamari with sriracha and lime aïoli. Starters often feature international influences, like grilled Spanish octopus with spicy tomato broth or salmon tartare with scallion, lime and jalapeño. Stick to the classics among the entrées: grilled hanger steak and roasted natural chicken breast. Desserts are updated versions of comfort food classics with a spiced chocolate pot de crème or “triple threat” brownie, cookie dough and ganache served with ice cream and caramel sauce. At the bar, cocktails span from the caipirinha and martini to the chili-infused margarita. The wine list includes a nice by-the-glass selection with a handful of local wines, and the beer list is international and proposes some local brews.