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FuGaKyu Restaurant Review: The popularity of this self-described Japanese “house of exquisite elegance” continues unabated. Though in our view “house of borderline kitsch” might be a more accurate tag, and though we miss the early days --- when outrageously original maki and sparkling slabs of nigiri could be had in relative quiet --- we mostly agree with the assessment of the masses on this one. Sushi, maki and sashimi are menu staples, but the real standout dishes are found with the sashimi taco trio, and the spicy duck and shrimp beef roll. Fried papaya, crawfish, snow crab, pineapple and coconut are among the inspired curiosities you’ll find in, on and around your rolls --- but they don’t usually outshine the star, superior cuts of fish, especially the sweet miso grilled Chilean sea bass. Meanwhile, the kitchen chefs like to play with their food as much as the sushi chefs do, to generally joyous effect; we still like the shrimp tempura noodles as well as the tuna belly nigiri. But of course, you’ve got to pay to play --- rolls average about $10.