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Fugu's Sushi & Wok Restaurant Review: When the dependable Yen’s Wok on Pearl closed, our heart skipped a beat. Where would we go when we couldn’t decide between sashimi, udon or Korean barbecue? Where would we take out-of-town guests or children who weren’t sushi fans? Fortunately, an improved version of Yen’s lives on in Fugu’s. Owner Brian Lee has added some exciting Japanese listings, but many of the old favorites remain. Three Japanese chefs and one Chinese chef helm the kitchen. We return again and again for the sesame-honey chicken --- lightly battered chicken breast pieces in a sweet, but not cloying sauce --- and the moo shu pork. The dragon roll (crab, shrimp tempura and cucumber topped with eel, avocado and eel sauce) and bento boxes (artfully presented with salad, edamame, rolls and Korean barbecue) are both enticing additions. Sushi ranges from traditional (tekka maki tuna rolls) to wildly Californian (the protein series: two different fish-and-vegetable combinations without rice, wrapped in soy paper), and is always fresh. Black cod marinated in miso sauce stands out as well. Prices are reasonable, and many of the original staff members are on board, keeping this a neighborhood draw. Kids like the mango mochi ice cream for dessert.