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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Gallagher's Steak House Restaurant Review: In the best tradition of the old New York and Chicago steakhouses, Gallagher's has red-checked tablecloths, lots of dark wood, and waiters dressed in subdued black pants and crisp white shirts. The no-nonsense à la carte menu features steaks and chops, although there's also salmon steak, swordfish steak, scallops and Maine lobster. The beef is dry-aged for 21 days in the exhibition aging room, then grilled over hickory logs to give it that smoky essence. The 26-oz. king loin literally hangs off the plate. Smaller cuts like the filet mignon and the prime rib are no less impressive. All the beef comes to the table unseasoned (by salt, pepper, butter or anything else). Simplicity itself---if the right cut is cooked correctly. Fortunately, it nearly always is. Of course, there's salt and pepper on the table so you can sprinkle and grind to your heart's content. Sides are also simple and more than a bit nostalgic---endearingly lumpy mashed potatoes, steamed broccoli, string beans, creamed spinach and deliciously caramelized onions. A word of advice, pace yourself and don't eat too much of the hot, homemade bread. For starters, try the following appetizers: baseball-sized Maryland crab cakes, half-dozen briny Blue Point oysters or the cold seafood platter (lobster, shrimp, oysters and clams). If you have any room for dessert, be sure to have the apple pie, creamy rice pudding, strawberry shortcake or, the best, lush, smooth New York-style cheesecake. The wine list offers many full-bodied selections (by the bottle or by the glass) that drink well with red meat.