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Gaslight, Brasserie du Coin Restaurant Review: Gaslight, a sibling of Aquitaine, cleanly translates the French brasserie experience with an interior design that evokes Art Deco-era Paris with mirrors, dark wood and high ceilings; raucous energy emanating from the zinc bar and the communal table; and lengthy hours of operation that make it an option for afternoon shoppers and midnight haunt-hoppers as well as prime-time diners. Not that any of that would matter if it didn’t also have the right culinary stuff --- but it does. Of course, by “right” we don’t mean “awe-inspiring”; to the contrary, we’re referring to an earnest approximation of brasserie fare --- simple, ample, affordable. There’s shaved beet salade and escargots to start (pair them with a Parisian sangría) leading to duck confit and croque monsieur, and daily specials like steak au poivre with pommes purée. Admittedly, we’ve noticed that the more calories we’re willing to spend, the more wowed we are with our purchase; wiener schnitzel with blue cheese sauce is a case in point. We like the chocolate beignets and crème brûlée for dessert.