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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Gaudi Restaurant Review: The décor may not suit all tastes and particularly in daylight might seem excessively gaudy, but the amiable service conquers all reservations. And even if the service were by snarling serfs in a broken-down shed, all could be forgiven for the excellence of the cooking. Amuse-gueules which really amuse are tiny brochettes of chive-sprinkled melon and ham, then chorizo in filo pastry which give a whole new meaning to sausage roll. Chef Nacho Martinez skill in execution equals his flair and imagination in such dishes as duck foie gras in escabèche with warm vegetable salad, or Castilian garlic soup with poached quail eggs, Serrano ham and cheese croûton. Similarly unlikely combinations succeed in sea bream baked in salt on red cabbage with aioli, pine nuts and sultanas, or herbed loin of wild boar garnished with wild mushrooms and small glazed white scallions filled with aubergine paste. That these garnishes are neither so meagre as to make you feel cheated, nor large enough to outstay their welcome, confirms his sound judgement. Equally tempting desserts include the penultimate gastronomic hedonism in the warm walnut sauce accompanying deep-fried cream, but the ultimate is the Pedro Ximenez ice cream with turron soufflé. The Spanish wine list shows a sharp eye for quality from house wines at £11.50 to rare old reservas extending to Vega Sicilia 1981 at £225.00. Set 2-course lunch £15.