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Gedera 26 Restaurant Review: At the entrance of the Yemenite quarter, Gedera 26 provides a bridge between Israel’s past and future: as the restaurant’s large glass windows offer an expansive view of battered, graffitied walls, diners are wrapped up in the city’s urban charm. The cooking, meanwhile, reflects chef-owner Amir Kronberg’s Swedish and Iraqi background, and he takes a modern approach in preparing the classic dishes of both cuisines. The chef is no stranger to the open-air market behind his restaurant, and the revolving menu reflects his personal daily selections. Swedish meatballs with spiced lingonberry sauce and mashed potatoes are a menu staple. Finely textured polenta topped with a blend of lobster, wood ear and porcini mushrooms and speckles of brittle bacon showcase the range of Kronberg’s skills. Malabi, a silky custard with whispers of rosewater and crisp toasted pistachios and a brunoise of fresh fruits, is the best dish to end the homey yet refined meal.