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Germantown Commissary Restaurant Review: Once a country store peddling everything from blue jeans to bologna, the Germantown Commissary now offers authentic Memphis-style ribs, pulled pork and hot tamales. Memphians tend to pile barbecue meat onto everything from pizza to spaghetti, but the Commissary may be one of the few places doling out barbecue-topped baked potatoes. As for sides, the “pig sticks” (sweet potato fries) and “pig chips” (homemade barbecue chips) are local favorites. Check out the super-sweet Southern pies (think lemon-icebox, chocolate and coconut cream) or the homemade banana pudding. As for adult beverages, only a small selection of beer is available. Casual as can be, it’s worth the wait you may encounter at lunchtime when the place is packed with locals.