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Germantown Commissary Restaurant Review: Once a country store peddling everything from blue jeans to bologna, the super-casual Germantown Commissary now offers authentic Memphis-style ribs and pulled pork. And in a nod to the Southern tamale trail, the Commissary also serves up hot tamales. Memphians tend to pile barbecue meat onto everything from pizza to spaghetti, but the Commissary may be one of the few places doling out barbecue-topped baked potatoes. As for sides, the “pig sticks” (sweet potato fries) and “pig chips” (homemade barbecue chips) are local favorites. Check out the super-sweet Southern pies (think lemon-icebox and coconut cream) or the homemade banana pudding. Adult beverages are limited to a small selection of wine and beer. At lunchtime the place is packed with locals, but it's worth the wait.