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The Ginger Man Restaurant Review: J.P. Donleavy's 1955 novel "The Ginger Man" is a chronicle of a drunken, adulterous law student on the prowl in rowdy 1950s Dublin. This Albany establishment is the antithesis of the places Donleavy's character Sebastian Dangerfield frequented. The Ginger Man is a local paean to Irish writers in décor and mood and a comfortable wine bar/restaurant with 75 different wine selections by the glass and 140 by the bottle, plus seasonal additions. Fresh fruit and cheese boards are popular, especially with various wine and spirits flights. Dinner entrées are of the comfort variety: lobster mac 'n' cheese, short ribs, paella. The misnamed category called "lighter fare" includes burgers, beef stroganoff and lasagna Bolognese. Imaginative desserts include butternut squash panna cotta and chocolate Guinness cake with Irish cream frosting.