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Giovanni's Ristorante Restaurant Review: In a setting that belies its modest beginnings as a pizza parlor, this grown-up restaurant takes its place among the best Italian spots in the Detroit area. Three cozy rooms are done up lavishly in carved oak with a wine-inspired theme, and framed family photos on the walls are a reminder of its beginnings. Chefs Tony Polito and David Machuga rule the kitchen. House-made pastas, created in the pasta room every Monday, include cannelloni stuffed with finely chopped wild mushrooms in delicate tarragon sauce. Those who favor a heartier approach should try the gnocchi with Bolognese sauce or lasagna cloaked in béchamel. On weekends, the menu is augmented with more contemporary dishes, such as Maryland lump crab cakes with ancho chili-lime mayonnaise and herb-dusted salmon with scallop and truffle mousse encased in flaky pastry. Still, most of the clientele comes for the traditional dishes: the solid veal saltimbocca, beef braciola and chicken Marsala. The wine room, with its leaded glass, fireplace and intricately handcrafted wrought iron wine cabinet, houses Italian wines as well as other imports and American vintages.