 Gjelina, named for the mother of one of the two owners, is comfortable and relaxed, much like its moniker would suggest. Restaurant veteran Robert Schwan chose fashionable and artistic Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice for this venture. Find the restaurant by spotting its wood façade, then enter to discover two huge communal tables in the center, a large bar in the back and tables along the walls. We recommend the outdoor patio where the fire pit, eclectic furniture, white tiles and a view into the kitchen give the space a luxurious, bohemian twist and a homey feel. Chef Travis Lett has fun with seasonal produce, and has composed a menu of rustic delights. Start with baby artichokes in white wine and gremolata, salt-and-pepper Kennebec fries with aïoli and romesco, asparagus with fried egg and Parm or arugula with marinated tomato, bacon and ricotta salata. Lett takes advantage of his wood-fired oven; pizzas, a must, come out light and crispy (for once!). He also roasts baby beets and serves them with goat cheese; cauliflower is seasoned with garlic, chili and vinegar. Fresh oysters, charcuterie and artisan cheeses launch the menu. Depending on your appetite or your desire to share, you may then choose among the small plates or the regular plates that range from grilled octopus, faro and beet risotto and crispy pork belly to ocean trout, whole grilled branzino, duck leg confit and roast chicken. A lamb burger with harissa is available at lunchtime. Finish with the pecan pie topped with crème fraiche. The short wine list favors French selections and also offers options from other European countries and California, as well as beers.
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