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Graeter's Restaurant Review: Cincinnati's pride: amazing amaretto crunch, bodacious black cherry and black walnut, creamy caramel, chocolate and coffee, succulent strawberry and so on. Graeter's is a beloved fixture in most Cincinnati neighborhoods, and even the newer stores have an old-fashioned soda-fountain feel. Started by a German immigrant in 1870, it's still a family business, and the ice cream is still made by a laborious process in which workers use hand-carved paddles to scrape the ice cream from French pots, the earliest ice-cream makers manufactured. Other machines whip air into the mix; these don't, resulting in a firm texture and creamy taste.