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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Grill Restaurant Review: A grand entrance leads past a piano with a small dance floor to a high-ceilinged koa-paneled dining room and an open-air terrace with ocean views. But The Grill at the Fairmont Orchid, beautiful and classy as ever, has undergone a number of changes since it was labeled as a superb steakhouse. Under executive chef James Babian, the restaurant's menu has morphed to include a contemporary array of great seafood dishes. Steak still ranks high, for sure: You can order an excellent grilled ten-ounce pepper-crusted New York Angus beef strip in a Cabernet reduction or lamb loin scented with garlic and truffle in a lavender-infused glaze. We love the grilled Hawaiian walu with fennel pollen crust and a red pepper vinaigrette, and the Hamakua mushroom and Maui onion tart. And we appreciate the wine list with an excellent and often-changing choice of wines by the glass. Your waiter is not rude when he asks you about dessert while you are still enjoying your entrée: The specialty soufflé must be ordered ahead of time, and its hot, steamy comfort will prove worth the interruption.