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Guard and Grace Restaurant Review: While Denver's dining landscape is saturated with shrines to beef, this progressive, high-roller ode to cattle from prolific chef-owner Troy Guard (TAG, TAG Burger Bar, Bubu and more) is a cut above the rest. The super-stylish quarters, furbished with a soaring walk-in wine cellar, chef's counter overlooking a huge open kitchen, posh lounge and raw bar, is a sight to behold, as are the starters, side dishes and slabs of steer. Appetizers include fresh oysters; oak-fired octopus jazzed up with a white bean and celery salad; a salt-roasted beet salad sharing space with charred cauliflower and crumbles of pistachio; and an heirloom tomato salad with house-made goat ricotta. A filet mignon flight trumpets four ounces each of Prime, grass-fed and Angus beef, while the beautifully seasoned bone-in rib-eye is a head-turner on every level. Side dishes include oak-fired mushrooms, loaded baked potatoes and braised greens studded with pork. For dessert, don't miss the sticky toffee cake. The wine room --- 3,000 bottles strong --- is deep, worldly and a study in liquid eye candy. And while the prices are lofty, it's easily one of the most notable wine lists in the city.