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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Hamersley's Bistro Restaurant Review: Gordon Hamersley's restaurant is a case study in the transformation from small wonder to major player. Back in 1987, he opened shop in a small Tremont Street storefront, which is now in the center of a vibrant dining scene born in part of Hamersley's magnetic pull. In the kitchen, Hamersley has always had a knack for masterfully conceived yet rootsy French food that doesn't deny its shift onto American soil. The wonderfully rustic and seasonal small plates menu may feature figs in prosciutto with salted pistachios, while standard appetizers might include crispy duck confit with marinated watermelon. The signature roast chicken with garlic, lemon and parsley deserves its cult following. Those who can’t live on chicken alone, however, can branch out with seasonal comforts like rabbit ragoût with eggplant, tomato and zucchini, or grilled beef skirt steak with smoky bacon. Round it all off with a mint chocolate chip cookie sandwich with candied mint leaves. No meal is complete without one of Fiona Hamersley's adroitly chosen wines, predominantly French and all with exceptional character. There’s just one thing that dampens the country bistro spirit: big city prices.