* Click here for rating key
Heartland Restaurant Review: Chef and co-owner Lenny Russo takes the name of his restaurant to heart, sourcing all ingredients (with the exception of wine) from an impressive network of farmers, artisans and purveyors working in the Upper Midwest. Russo and his talented crew change their menu daily, depending upon seasonal availability, and they cure their own meats. The results can be extraordinary: pan-roasted rabbit in a black-walnut glaze, cornmeal-crusted catfish with a pickled radish rémoulade, a venison strip steak paired with grilled garlic scapes that's finished with a rich foie gras-cherry butter. Salads are particularly lovely. Pastry chef Jack Fulton takes his cues from his boss, producing hyper-seasonal treats such as a chocolate-smoked Michigan cherry cake with green peppercorn ice cream. The adjacent wine bar is where neighbors drop in for more easygoing fare, including cheeses and house-made charcuterie, plus deceptively simple entrées, such as pan-fried Lake Superior whitefish with fresh pea shoots or slow-roasted, brown sugar-glazed lamb ribs. The Arts and Crafts-inspired setting is warm and inviting, and Russo's wife Mega Hoehn, the restaurant's well-versed sommelier, watches over the well-trained staff.