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Herons at The Umstead Hotel & Spa Restaurant Review: Herons at The Umstead Hotel & Spa routinely attracts discerning diners, including the nation’s top chefs. Steven Devereaux Greene, previously chef de cuisine at the property, is back, and has assumed the executive chef position. The menu relies on pure flavors and artistic presentations. Breakfast features the same locavore sense of dining that governs the restaurant’s other menus, so pancakes may be studded with Georgia pecans and the grits are sure to be from a local supplier, such as Anson Mills in South Carolina. But you’ll also want to watch for smoked salmon rösti with horseradish cream and soft poached eggs among the heartier choices. Throughout the menu the finest ingredients are chosen: sweetbreads from milk-fed veal; lamb from Virginia's Border Springs Farm. At lunch consider a lobster roll or a Wagyu beef burger. Dinner choices may include a grass-fed steak with onion pudding or sea bass with garlic dumplings. Another option is the five-course Chef’s Tasting Menu. For dessert, expect the unusual, as the season again governs selections. An artisanal cheese plate would be a good pick. The extensive wine list ranges throughout the globe, so should you find it overwhelming, allow the wine steward to recommend a pairing with each course.