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Higgins Restaurant Review: "Local and seasonal" is now practically a cliché, but it was a revolutionary concept when chef-owner Greg Higgins set up shop in downtown Portland back in the 1980s. His warm and classy establishment hasn't lost its edge over the years. The menu still showcases the freshest seasonal and regional ingredients around, including herbs and produce from Higgins’ personal garden. Combinations can be unexpected but almost always work. While the “whole pig plate” --- braised loin, sausage, ribs and belly --- is a favorite dish, there are typically several choices for those seeking vegetables, such as eggplant, onion and feta cheese risotto, or a curried winter vegetable stew with black-eyed pea fritters and cilantro walnut pesto. Seafood is always a wise choice; try the pan-fried oysters with seasonal accompaniments. Desserts, such as blueberry upside-down cake with spiked buttermilk ice cream, also showcase local ingredients. The adjoining bar is less expensive and has a more casual atmosphere. It's a good place to nibble on house-made charcuterie. While the wine list is first-rate, the beer choices excel and include an impressive selection of global brews. There’s even a beer steward on staff.