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Higgins Restaurant Review: When chef/owner Greg Higgins opened his downtown Portland restaurant 20 years ago, "local and seasonal" was a revolutionary concept. Now these are ubiquitous buzzwords, but Higgins’ warm and classy establishment retains its edge. His menu still showcases the freshest seasonal and regional ingredients, including herbs and produce from his personal garden. Wild Oregon albacore tuna will star in a Niçoise salad, and be prepared as seared albacore with roasted eggplant, couscous and lemon vinaigrette. A “whole pig plate” featuring braised loin, sausage, ribs and belly is a favorite dish. Vegetarians will find many options, such as Cretan-style zucchini fritters with carrot tofu tzatziki, marinated tomatoes and basmati pilaf, or roasted hazelnut dosas with curried pumpkin ragoût, basmati rice, and a spicy date and cilantro chutney. Seafood is always a fine choice: shrimp and crab cakes or mussels in plum ginger sauce. Desserts may include pumpkin pound cake, almond custard tart with plum sorbet, or butterscotch pots de crème. The adjoining bar has a more casual atmosphere, and is an excellent place to nosh on house-made charcuterie. The wine and beer lists are both first-rate; there's even a beer steward on staff.