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Hillstone Restaurant Review: This expertly run operation from the corporate owners of Houston’s and Bandera offers reliably good food, cocktails and prices, as well as skilled service. What’s not to like? White tablecloths and clean wood and stone décor suggest a more expensive, perhaps stuffy experience, but the busy open kitchen keeps it simple with signatures like hardwood-grilled Allen Brothers beef tenderloin, rotisserie chicken, and one of the best French dips anywhere, overstuffed with juicy shaved prime rib and served with fiery horseradish, jus for dunking, and crisp, skinny fries. You’ll also see a lot of burgers on the tables, plus massive platters of campfire barbecue pork ribs, giant salads, and here and there, a dish of crispy Oysters St. Charles topped in creamed spinach, or loup de mer finished in roasted Marcona almonds, olive oil and fresh lemon. No matter the time of day, most guests also are enjoying wine, or a stiff martini, too.