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Hudson at Haymount House Restaurant Review: The Southern colonial plantation-style Haymount House has undergone several transformations since its construction in 1910. Its impressive white-columned portico structure housed the Maison Lafitte restaurant for many years and experienced a massive renovation to become Hudson on Haymount House. The result is a juxtaposition of old and new: the mansion's soaring space and marble fireplaces are preserved, as are the glittering chandeliers. The philosophy at Hudson, though, is thoroughly progressive. There is no dress code and diners sit casually in the dining room or separate bar in relaxed attire. The view of the Hudson River is formidable, as is the cuisine created by Scott Riesenberger, former executive chef of Cru and chef de cuisine at Corton. Entrées feature a delicate poached lobster in beurre de pêche, served with poached lobster cabbage and sprinkled with pistachios --- a buttery, sweet and nutty mélange of flavors. A cider-marinated, roasted poulard with smoked bacon, mushrooms and giant peas similarly exhibits a complex and complementary combination of tastes. Even what is traditionally considered more casual fare, including a burger and hard-boiled eggs, are conceived with inventive twists. Equal attention is paid to dessert. Ice creams come in unconventional flavors like mozzarella, a likely choice given the naturally smooth texture of the cheese, while pear is sweet and with a slightly grainy consistency reminiscent of the pure fruit. The wine list is comprehensive, with old-world and new-world selections, non-vintages and premier crus ensuring there is an appropriate choice for every occasion.