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Hugo's Restaurant Review: Born in Mexico City, chef Hugo Ortega worked his way through the Houston restaurant scene before opening Hugo's with his restaurateur wife, Tracy Vaught. Housed in a vintage 1925 building, lovingly restored to the original brick walls and stamped-tin ceiling, Hugo’s is a dining destination worth seeking out. Start with one of four ceviches, perhaps a version with octopus, before enjoying a seasonal entrée like the chapulines, pan-sautéed grasshoppers served with guacamole, tortillas and chipotle tomatillo salsa. Seafood dishes are offered alongside meat plates such as cochito con mole Xico (braised pork shoulder, mashed plantains and pasilla-dried plum sauce from Veracruz). There’s a notable wine list and multiple tequila selections, not to mention desserts by Ortega’s brother and pastry chef Ruben Ortega. It makes a romantic date night spot, particularly on the candlelit patio. Sunday brunch is popular, so make a reservation to sample the seemingly endless Mexican delicacies on the buffet tables.